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Last Updated on April 12, 2025 by Giorgia Guazzarotti

exfoliating cleansers

Do exfoliating cleansers work? Mmm…

You need cleanse and exfoliate. These steps AREN’T optional. Why not buy an exfoliating cleanser and do both at the same time? It’ll save you money and time in the evening, right?

Not so fast…

There are two types of cleansing exfoliants: physical and chemical. One of them doesn’t work. The other one does, but it’s not that good for your skin. Here’s what I mean:

Exfoliating Chemical Cleansers

Chemical exfoliants dissolve the glue that holds skin cells together, allowing them to slough off. The most common types of chemical exfoliants are:

  • Glycolic acid: It also hydrates skin and (in high doses) stimulates collagen production, so it’s perfect for dry and sun-damaged skin.
  • Lactic acid: It’s hydrating and gentle, so it’s the best option for sensitive skin.
  • Salicylic acid: It exfoliates pores from within and treat breakouts, so it’s ideal for oily skin.

These acids work wonders when left on the skin for hours. But in a cleanser?

Related: Why I Prefer Chemical Exfoliants

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Do Exfoliating Chemical Cleansers Work?

Kind of… but not well enough to justify replacing your leave-on exfoliant. Here’s why:

  • Rinsed off: Exfoliating acids need to stay on the skin for hours to work their magic. When you rinse the cleanser off your face, rinse them down the drain too – and what will they exfoliate from there?
  • Short contact time: How long are you really massaging your cleanser in? Thirty seconds, maybe a minute max if you’re having a self-care moment? That’s just not enough time for those actives to do their thing. Unless you’re massaging your cleanser in for a full 5–10 minutes, the acids barely get a chance to work.
  • Weak concentrations: Most exfoliating cleansers don’t contain high enough concentrations of these acids to give you actual, noticeable results. They throw in a tiny bit just so they can put “exfoliating” on the label. Marketing VS skin results: 1-0.
  • Wrong pH. Many cleansers aren’t even at the right pH for exfoliating acids to work properly. Glycolic, for example, needs a pH between 3–4 to be effective. Most cleansers are much higher than that to avoid irritation.

So yes, technically they work. Just not in a way that’s actually worth your time or money. 

What To Use Instead

If you want to see some serious and quick results, get yourself a leave-in exfoliant. Here are my fave picks:

  • Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($90.00): This exfoliant contains two exfoliants. Glycolic Acid to fade away dark spots and Salicylic Acid to unclog pores. Available at Cult Beauty, Sephora and SpaceNK
  • Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid ($29.00): The cult exfoliant from the brand, it unlclogs pores and treats blackheads and acne. The texture’s a little sticky, but if you can take that, this is one of the best salicylic acid exfoliants out there. Available at Cult Beauty, Paula’s Choice, Sephora, and SpaceNK.
  • The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution (£6.80): A gentle, no-frills Glycolic Acid exfoliant for people on a budget. Available at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, The Ordinary, and Ulta
  • The Ordinary Lactic Acid 5% + HA 2% ($6.79): A mild concentration that hydrates, exfoliates, and brightens the complexion. There’s also a 10% version available, when you’re ready to upgrade. Available at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Look Fantastic, Sephora, SpaceNK, The Ordinary and Ulta

You can check out my fave picks here.

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Physical Exfoliating Cleaners

Physical exfoliants mechanically remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. The most common types of physical exfoliants are:

  • Apricot kernels
  • Plastic microbeads
  • Salt
  • Sugar
  • Walnut shells

In other words, exfoliating physical cleansers are scrubs, but in a cleanser form.

Exfoliating physical cleansers work. But, in my opinion, that’s irrelevant. Let me explain.

Do Exfoliating Physical Cleansers Work?

Here’s why I’m not a fan of exfoliating physical cleansers (or scrubs in general):

  • Can tear skin!: These small grains and particles often have uneven, jagged edges that can tear at the skin and scratch it. Apricot kernels are the worst offenders (for the love of your skin, stay away from those St Ives scrubs!).
  • Bad for the environment: Plastic microbeads are the gentlest, as the tend to have even, rounded edges that don’t harm skin. But, they’re bad for the environment, which is why there’s talk of getting them banned soon.
  • Irritation: Exfoliating physical exfoliants will get dead cells off the surface of your skin while you massage the cleanser on, but they often cause irritation in the process – especially if you scrub too hard or too long. Be careful!

Thank you, but no thank you.

Related: Physical VS Chemical Exfoliants: Which One Is Right For You?

When Exfoliating Cleansers Are Actually Worth Using

I may not be a fan of exfoliating cleansers, but even I admit there are some situations when they come in handy. Here are 3 times when it makes sense to use exfoliating cleansers:

Not all exfoliating cleansers are created equal—and in some cases, they can pull their weight:

  • As a gentle intro to acids: If your skin is super sensitive and can’t handle leave-on products yet, this is a good way to get a touch of exfoliation in.
  • After a sweaty workout: When your face feels gross but you’re not in the mood for your full routine, a quick wash with a salicylic acid cleanser can help clear out sweat, oil, and bacteria before it clogs things up. Is it deep exfoliation? No. But it’s better than letting gym grime marinate on your skin.
  • When you’re travelling, busy, or just can’t be bothered: We all have those nights. A 2-in-1 sounds tempting when you’re living out of a suitcase or falling asleep standing up. Just don’t expect it to replace your proper exfoliant. It’s the skincare version of dry shampoo: convenient, not a long-term solution

FAQs About Exfoliating Cleansers

  • Can I use an exfoliating cleanser every day?
    Spoiler: probably not. Especially if you’re using other actives. Overdoing it is way too easy and can lead to irritation.
  • Should I exfoliate before or after cleansing?
    This one comes up a lot when people use separate products. Short answer: cleanse first, always.
  • Can I use an exfoliating cleanser with retinol?
    Yes, but not at the same time. You’re asking for irritation. Use them on alternate nights instead.
  • Is it okay to use an exfoliating cleanser in the morning?
    You can, but be careful if you’re heading into sun exposure. Acids can make skin more sensitive to UV. Be super generous with sunscreen that morning!
  • What’s better: exfoliating cleanser or scrub?
    Neither if they’re irritating or poorly formulated, but chemical exfoliants (used properly) give you better exfoliation with a lesser chance of irritation.
  • Can teens use exfoliating cleansers?
    Yes, but they don’t need anything harsh. A gentle salicylic acid cleanser 2–3x a week is usually enough if they’re dealing with breakouts.

The Bottom Line

Exfoliating cleansers aren’t the awesome idea they seem to be. Do your skin a favour, and cleanse your skin first, and exfoliate it later. With two separate products. It’s a bit more time-consuming and expensive, I know. But, it works so much better.