What it is
Boric Acid is a white or colorless substance that comes in either crystal or powder form. It occurs in nature as a mineral called sassolite but can also be obtained through other minerals such as kernite and colemanite.

What it does
Boric Acid is a preservative used to prevent yeast from growing in your beauty products, thus prolonging their shelf-life. It also has antiseptic properties.
In addition, it is used to adjust the ph and thickness of products as well as preventing them from separating into their liquid and oily parts.

Side effects
Boric Acid can cause irritations.

Sulfate, a group of ingredients widely used mostly in shampoos and bath products, seem to have gained a bad reputation in the beauty world lately and the number of products claiming to be free of them is slowly increasing. But what are they are and are they really harmful for our health? Let’s take a closer look:

What are Sulfates?

Sulfates are a group of substances that include, among others, Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES), Ammonium Laureth Sulphate (ALS), Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES) and TEA Laureth Sulphate (TEA). These ingredients, which are derived from coconut oil, are cleansing agents that, by helping water mix with oils, are able to lift oil, dirt and other impurities from skin and hair and rinse it away with water.

In addition, it’s sulfates that make our products foam and bubble. Although a bath wash or shampoo doesn’t have to lather or foam to clean well, consumers seem to prefer products that produce lots of bubbles and foam, which is why sulfates (together with their cheap cost) are so widely used in personal care products.

Does SLS cause cancer?

A quick search on the internet will bring up lots of websites claiming that one surfactant, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, can cause cancer, cataract, retard healing, and keep children’s eyes from developing properly. This sounds scary but is it true? First of all, there is absolutely no proof that SLS can cause cancer. There was an email going around claiming that it causes the disease, but that turned out to be a hoax. SLS isn’t classified as carcinogenic by any regulatory agency or cancer authority and there is no reference in scientific literature that even hints at this possibilility. A quick search on Pubmed (a fantastic resources for published scientific studies) doesn’t bring up any studies supporting the claim SLS causes cancer. It just isn’t true.

As for the claims that SLS retards healing and can prevent children’s eyes from developing properly, they seem to have originated from a study conducted by the Medical College of Georgia in 1989. But once again, the conclusions of the study were misunderstood. First of all, the study was done on animals, not people (and definitely not children) using concentrations that are far higher than those used in personal care products.

The study found that if the cornea is damaged, then exposure to high concentrations of SLS can retard healing. But seriously, is that really surprising? Still, that’s no reason to stop using SLS. As for cataracts, in order for SLS to cause it, the lens of your eye should be immersed in this ingredient. But the lens is set deep within the eye so it’s just impossible that it will ever come into contact with SLS! As for children, the scientists didn’t conduct any experiment at all on the effects of SLS on their eyes! So where the claim that SLS prevents their eyes from developing properly comes from puzzles me. It’s just completely made up and false.

Are Sulfates irritants?

The real concern about SLS is irritation. All sulfates, being surfactants that strip oil from skin and hair, can cause irritations when they remove too much natural oil. However, they don’t all have the same irritating potential. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is the worst. It is very irritating and that’s why, when scientists want to verify how much irritation a substance can cause, they compare it with SLS! Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate is only slightly milder than SLS, but still a strong irritant, so if you have sensitive skin, it is best to avoid SLS and ALS.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Ammonium Laureth Sulfate instead are considered to be very mild and that’s why they also produce less foam. Of course, in particularly sensitive individuals, there’s the chance that these two can irritate skin as well, but most people will be able to use them without experiencing any side effects at all. In addition, the irritating potential of Sulfates also depends on their concentrations (the smaller, the less irritating) and the other ingredients in the products.

If they contain conditioning and moisturizing ingredients that replenish the oils that surfactants took away, their irritating potential is very reduced for example.  That’s why it’s important to apply conditioner after shampoo and a body moisturizer after a shower. If you do that, you shouldn’t have any problems at all.

What about leave-on products with Sulfates?

So far, we talked about products like shampoos and body washes that are meant to stay in contact with the skin only for a very limited time before being rinsed off. Unless you have very sensitive skin that gets irritated easily, there is no reason to avoid sulfates (apart from SLS and ALS only) in those products.

But I’ve also noticed that sometimes sulfates are also used in moisturizers and lotions, sunscreens and foundations (all products that are designed to stay on the skin for hours), to give these products a pearlescent appearance. Although some sulfates, as we have seen, can be very mild, I prefer to avoid them in these kinds of products because they are more likely to cause irritations when they’re not washed away. And besides, there really isn’t any need for them in leave-on products.

Should I avoid products with Sulfates?

Unless you’re allergic to Sulfate or have very sensitive skin that’s easily irritated, there is absolutely no reason to avoid them in your products. Sure, they can be irritants, but then every ingredient (natural ones included) in a beauty product can cause a negative reaction to someone or irritate their skin. But apart from that, they don’t pose any health risk at all. On the contrary, they’re safe and effective cleansers. But if you’re still concerned, use only rinse-off products with milder forms of sulfates (like SLES ad ALES) and moisturize well afterwards (although that’s something that you should be doing anyway!).

What it is
Isopropyl Isostearate is a liquid made with Isopropyl Alcohol and Isostearic Acid.

What it does
Isopropyl Isostearate is an emollient that makes skin soft and smooth. In addition, it is used in pressed products as a binder to hold the ingredients together.

Side effects
Isopropyl Isostearate can be slightly irritating.

What it is
Sodium Laureth Sulfate is derived from coconut.

What it does
Sodium Laureth Sulfate is very used in shampoos, bath and other rinse-off products because it is considered to be a gentle but effective cleansing agent. It is also what makes these products foam and lather.

Side effects
Sodium Laureth Sulfate can cause irritation in some people.

What it is
Calcium Ascorbate is a stable form of Vitamin C.

What it does
Calcium Ascorbate is an antioxidant that fights free radical formation and is necessary for collagen production. It also helps heal inflammation.
In addition, it is used in cosmetic products to adjust their ph and to help prevent them from spoiling when they come in contact with the oxygen in the air.

Side effects
Calcium Ascorbate is generally considered to be safe. However, products containing forms of Vitamin C can be expensive so make sure they contain a high enough concentration of this ingredient (don’t buy products that list it at the very end!) before purchasing. If the concentrations are too small, it just won’t do much for your skin at all.

Acne is a common skin problem that affects most teens but the struggle with breakouts doesn’t always end when you grow up. Acne is difficult to cure, and if you use the wrong products you’ll only make this condition worse. But choosing the right ones for you amid the many on the market that promise to banish breakouts and clear up your skin isn’t an easy task. The two most used ingredients used in these types of products are Benzoyl Peroxide and Salicylic Acid, both of which are effective at treating mild and moderate acne, but what are the differences between the two? And which one should you use?

Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl Peroxide is one of the most effective acne treatments available in over-the-counter products. It works thanks to its peeling action: it exfoliates skin, getting rid of the dead cells on the surface, dirt and sebum that clog pores and inflame follicles causing bumps. Because it can penetrate deeply into the pores, Benzoyl Peroxide can not only clean them up but also reach the bacteria the causes acne, called P.Acnes, and kill it. And unlike antibiotics, it doesn’t pose the risk of bacterial resistance. In addition, this ingredient can also dry up existing blemishes.

Benzoyl Peroxide can be used in products in amounts up to 10%. However, scientific studies have shown that 2.5% concentrations are not only just as effective, but also less irritating. If you’re planning to start using Benzoyl Peroxide, opt for products that only contain small amounts of this ingredient at the beginning. You can always choose products with higher concentrations later on if the bacteria on your skin are particularly stubborn and lower amounts don’t work too well with them.

In addition, when you first start using Benzoyl Peroxide, you might experience irritation and dryness. These symptoms usually go away after a couple of weeks which is the time your skin needs to adjust to this strong antiseptic. For this reason, it is recommended you only use products with Benzoyl Peroxide on alternate days at the beginning. If after a couple of weeks your skin is still dry and irritating or you also experience itching, peeling, burning or swelling, stop using this product immediately. If it makes your skin too dry, your acne will only get worse, not better.

Salicylic acid

If you have sensitive skin that doesn’t tolerate Benzoyl Peroxide well, Salicylic Acid may be a better option for you. Salicylic Acid is a BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) derived from the bark of the willow tree. Like Benzoyl Peroxide, Salicylic Acid is a peeling agent too: it has the ability to penetrate the pores, exfoliating them from the inside, while exfoliating the suface of the skin as well, thus removing dirt, sebum and dead cells that cause inflammation. By clearing up skin, it also reduces blackheads, whiteheads and blemishes.

In products designed to treat acne, Salicylic Acid is used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2%. Although a lot milder than Benzoyl Peroxide, it can still cause some mild dryness, which can be healed by applying an oil-free moisturizer, and slight irritation. In this case, use the product less often and if irritation persists, stop using it.

The Bottom Line: which one is better?

Both Benzoyl Peroxide and Salicylic Acid are peeling agents that exfoliate skin to unclog pores and reduce inflammation, but the first ingredient also has antiseptic properties that make it stronger but more irritating as well. Although both of them work well in mild to moderate acne cases, we all have different skin and we all react to these ingredients differently. So, only you can decided which one is best for you based on what works better for you and what your skin can better tolerate. Those with sensitive skin could probably benefit more from Salicylic Acid though which is gentler and less likely to cause irritations.

Do you use products with Benzoyl Peroxide or Salicylic Acid? Which one works best for you?

What it is
Ceramides are a group of lipids (there are 9 different types) that make up about 50% of the skin’s natural protective barrier, preventing moisture from evaporating from the skin, thus keeping it hydrated and moisturized.

What it does
When applied topically, Ceramides can help restore the levels of reduced ceramides in the skin, thus rebuilding the protective barrier so that skin is hydrated and its appearance improved.
Although touted to be a powerful antioxidant, there is no scientific proof that ceramindes help fight or prevent the signs of aging. They simply work only as a moisturizing agent.

Side effects
Unfortunately Ceramides are scarce and that’s why products containing them tend to be on the expensive side.

What it is
Ginkgo Biloba is an extract derived from the leaves of the Ginkgo Biloba plant.

What it does
Ginkgo Biloba contains high amount of quercetin, a strong antioxidant. Therefore, it has antioxidant properties that help fight free radicals, but can’t reduce or get rid of wrinkles that have already formed.
In addition, Ginko Biloba has anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe skin and is beneficial for those that have irritations, redness and skin conditions like eczema and acne.
Ginkgo Biloba also improves blood circulation and for this reason, it is often used in anti-cellulite creams. However, there is no proof that improving blood circulation has any effects on cellulite.

Side effects
Ginkgo Biloba is generally considered to be safe. But taking Ginkgo orally can increase bruising from Botox and other filler injections.