What it is
Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP) is a molecule that stores energy our body needs.

What it does
Research on Adenosine Triphosphate is limited so far, but it seems to help in reducing inflammation and improve the appearance of the skin.

Side effects
Adenosine Triphosphate is generally considered to be safe.

What it is
Papaya Extract is derived from Papaya. Both its properties and side effects derive from its component papain, an enzyme.

What it does
Papaya Extract is an exfoliant: it removes the dead skin cells on the surface, thus revealing the brighter and cleaner skin underneath.
In addition, it also has antibacterial properties.

Side effects
Papaya Extract can be irritating.

What it is
Imidazolidinyl Urea is a white powder.

What it does
Imidazolidinyl Urea is a preservative that kills and prevents the growth of bacteria in cosmetics, thus making them last longer. It doesn’t offer much protection against fungi though and because of it, it is usually used with other preservatives such as parabens. Imidazolidinyl Urea works by releasing formaldehyde. Although formaldehyde is toxic, it is released only in minuscule amounts that don’t pose a threat to human health.

Side effects
Imidazolidinyl Urea can cause contact dermatitis in some people.
In the European Union this ingredient can be used only in concentrations up to 0.6%, while in Japan only in rinse-off products and at a maximum concentration of 0.3%. In addition, some experts also recommend to avoid this ingredients in products for infants.

We all know that we should use a sunscreen that protects us from both UVA and UVB rays. But how do we know if our sunscreen offers broad spectrum protection? After all, the SPF number on the bottle only refers to the protection you get against UVB rays and so there’s no way of knowing if it will protect us from the UVA ones as well, unless we look at the ingredient list.

So I decided to put together this list of common active ingredients used in sunscreens to briefly explain from what kind of UV rays they protect against, and that you can quickly consult to know if the sunscreen you’re using or planning to buy offers adequate protection:

Avobenzone: also called Parsol 1789 or Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, it protects against the entire UVA range. However, it degrades quickly when exposed to light, and for this reason it should be used in products that also contain photostabilizing ingredients such as Octocrylene, Mexoryl, or Tinosorb.

Benzophenones: they are a group of sunscreen ingredients that include Oxybenzone, Methanone, Benzophenone-3 and any other ingredient that ends in “benzone” or “benzophenone”. They offer UVB and some UVA protection but could cause contact dermatitis in some people.

Cinoxate: a sunscreen agent that offers full UVB and little UVA protection.

Ensulizole: also called Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, it provides UVB and minimal UVA protection. For this reason, it still needs to be used with other sunscreen agents that protect against UVA rays. It is water-soluble and thus feels light on the skin.

Homosalate: a sunscreen agent that protects skin from UVB rays. It also offers very minimal protection against UVA rays and therefore needs to be paired with other sunscreen ingredients to provide full-spectrum protection. This ingredient can be used only in concentration up to 10%.

Menthyl Anthranilate: also knows as Meradimate, it protects from some, but not all UVA rays. It is rarely used in the USA and not permitted to be used in Europe and Japan.

Mexoryl SX: also called Ecamsule and terephthalylidine dicamphor sulfonic acid, this ingredient was developed and patented by L’Oreal (and can thus be found only in products made by this company). It protects against UVA rays and degrades more slowly when exposed to sunlight than other ingredients like Avobenzone. It is often used with Mexoryl XL.

Mexoryl XL: also called Drometrizole Trisiloxane, it was developed and patented by L’Oreal too, and can thus be found in their products only. It protects against UVB rays. Because it is oil soluble, it is a good option for extended outdoors activities. It is often used with Mexoryl SX.

Octinoxate: also called Octyl Methoxycinnamate, this oil soluble chemical sunscreen agent protects skin from UVB rays. It is a very common ingredient used in sunscreen products but some studies have raised concerns that it can generate free radical damage. Further research on these claims is still needed though.

Octisalate: also called octyl salicylate and ethylhexyl salicylate, this ingredient protects only against UVB rays.

Octocrylene: a weak ingredient that protects against UVB rays. It also helps to stabilize Avobenzone but can cause irritations in some people.

Tinosorb: Tinosorb S (bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) and Tinosorb M (methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol) offer protection against the all UVA and some UVB rays. Tinosorb S is water soluble while Tinosorb M is oil soluble but both are photostable and can also partly prevent the degradation of other sunscreen ingredients, such as Avobenzone. Widely used in Europe and Australia, for some reason they haven’t been approved by the FDA yet.

Titanium Dioxide: a physical sunscreen agent that protects against the entire UVB range but only half of the UVA range. Because Titanium Dioxide is a white mineral, it can leave a white cast on skin, so make sure you blend it in very well.

Trolamine Salicylate: a sunscreen agents that offers protection only against UVB rays.

Zinc Oxide: a physical sunscreen agent that protects against the whole UVA and UVB spectrum. That’s why Zinc Oxide is considered to be the best sunscreen ingredient available (and my favourite too), although, just like Titanium Dioxide, it can leave an unappealing white cast on skin, so blend it in well! Also, to be effective on its own, it needs to be used in concentrations of at least 16%. If used in lower amounts, other sunscreen agents are needed to offer broad spectrum protection.

I hope you found this boring list helpful and if you’re not sure your sunscreen offers broad spectrum protection, go check it now!

Source: epa.gov

What it is
Ammonium Hydroxide is a colorless, clear liquid. It is made by dissolving ammonia in water.

What it does
Ammonium Hydroxide is used to adjust the PH level of cosmetic products.
In addition, it can also be used in hair dyes to help the color better diffuse into the hair shaft.

Side effects
Ammonium Hydroxide can irritate eyes. In addition, in the European Union this ingredient can be used only in concentrations up to 6%.

What it is
Bentonite is a type of clay.

What it does
Bentonite is primarily used as an absorbent in cosmetics. Its ability to soak up excess oil and liquids makes it beneficial for those with oily skin.
In addition, Bentonite can be used as a bulking agent (a substance that can increase volume of solids or dilute them), to prevent the oil and water parts of a product from separating and to reduce the transparent appearance of some cosmetics.

Side effects
Because of its absorbent properties, Bentonite can be drying for those with dry skin.

Sunflower Oil, which has been used by Native Americans for centuries for both culinary and medicinal purposes, is now used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, although often in very small concentrations. But is Sunflower Oil one of those natural ingredients that look good on the label but do nothing, or does it actually provide some benefits to the skin? Let’s find out:

What is Sunflower Oil?

Sunflower Oil (Helianthus annuus) is an oil, clear to pale gold in color, extracted from the seeds of the sunflower. It is made up mostly of Linoleic Acid (48-74%), Oleic Acid (14-40%), Palmitic Acid (4-9%) and Stearic Acid (1-7%). Several types of this oil are produced, such as high linoleic, high oleic (it contains at least 82% oleic acid) and mid oleic (it has at least 69% linoleic acid). The variations in these unsaturated fatty acids profiles are due to both the climate and the genetics of the plant. But they all contain a very high amount of Vitamin E.

Benefits of Sunflower Oil

Sunflower Oil is used in cosmetics because of its moisturizing properties. This oil forms a barrier on the skin that retains moisture but still allows skin to breathe, keeping it soft and hydrated. It helps improve the appearance of dry skin and is suitable for those with sensitive skin as well. A 2005 study has also discovered that Sunflower Oil lowers the rate of infections in low-birth-weight premature infants, performing better than Aquaphor, a petrolatum based product. The skin of premature babies is underdeveloped and thus more prone to infections. Sunflower Oil is able to reduce this risk because of its ability to create a protective barrier on the skin. In addition to help strengthen the skin’s protective barrier, Sunflower Oil has antimicrobial properties (J. Appl. Microbiol. 2001;90:279-84) and is sometimes used to treat psoriasis (Phytother. Res. 2003;17:987-1000).

Have you ever used Sunflower Oil?

Source: la_febbra

What it is
Trimethylsiloxysilicate is a silicone.

What it does
Trimethylsiloxysilicate forms a protective barrier on the skin that slows down water loss, keeping skin hydrated.

Side effects
Trimethylsiloxysilicate is generally considered to be safe.