Can Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 (Eyeseryl) Really Reduce Puffy Eyes?

acetyl tetrapeptide 5 puffy eyes

A lot of ingredients in our skincare arsenal can hydrate skin, fight wrinkles, and reduce dark spots, but, when it comes to undereye puffiness and bags, very little works. Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 (Eyeseryl) is said to do both. No wonder then, that this peptide is finding its way into more and more eye creams lately. But does it really work?

How does Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 work?

According to Lipotec, the company that makes Acetyl tetrapeptide-5, this peptide “can fight puffy eyebags by working on several mechanisms, like improving the vascular system and strengthening the skin under the eyes preventing fluid accumulation.”

Eyeseryl strengthens skin by inhibiting glycation. Glycation is a process that causes collagen and elastin, the substances that keep your skin firm and youthful, to lose their elasticity. The result? Older-looking skin. Eyeseryl has the ability to bind itself to one of the proteins involved in glycation, so it won’t be able to attach itself to the other substances necessary for glycation. In other words, it interrupts the process, keeping skin stronger and more elastic.

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 also fights another cause of puffy eyes: water accumulation. This can be due to several factors, but the main ones are poor lymphatic circulation and high capillary permeability. This peptide can decrease the permeability of blood vessels in the eye area. This in turn, reduces the amount of fluid that accumulates there. The results? Reduced undereye puffines.

ACETYL_TETRAPEPTIDE_5

Is Acetyl Tetrapetide-5 really effective?

A 2006 study has shown that Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 can decrease puffy eyes. A group of 20 women was asked to use a cream containing 0.01% Eyeseryl for 60 days. After only 15, 70% of them saw an improvement. As promising as this sounds, this study was conducted by the manufacturer.

I was unable to find any independent studies, which is not surprising considering that peptides are still a new phenomenon in the skincare world. But they’re getting more popular by the day, so, hopefully, more studies on them will be performed soon.

In the meantime, should you use it? According to dermatologist Leslie Baumann, using peptides is useless because their molecules are too big to penetrate skin. It has been suggested, though, that peptide may work even when they remain on the surface of the skin, by signalling to skin receptors present there how a cell should behave.

Until the controversy around peptides is settled, and we know more about their mechanism of action, I wouldn’t recommend you buy a cream because of them. But, if you find a well-formulated product that also contains peptides, go for it. If it turns out peptides work, great. If not, no harm done.

Products with Acetyl Tetrapetide-5

Acetyl Tetrapetide-5 can be found in Your Best Face Correct Eye Cream ($150.00), Lumavera Anti-Aging Eye Cream ($80.00), and Elizabeth Arden Prevage Anti-Aging Eye Serum ($100.00). They all contain hydrating agents and antioxidants, as well as a good dose of peptides.

The Bottom Line

Acetyl Tetrapetide-5 shows promise. Studies done by the manufacturer show it helps decrease undereye puffiness and bags, but, until independent studies confirm these benefits, it would be best to purchase products with this ingredient only when they also contain proven anti-aging fighters, like antioxidants.

Have you ever tried Eyeseryl?

Know Your Ingredients: Glyceryl Stearate SE

glyceryl stearate se

What it is
Glyceryl Stearate SE is a “Self-Emulsifying” form of Glyceryl Stearate.

What it does
Glyceryl Stearate is an emulsifier: it prevents the oily and liquidy parts of a formula from separating.

Side effects
Glyceryl Stearate is generally considered to be safe.

(Source: cosmeticsinfo.org)

Benzoyl Peroxide: Friend Or Foe?

benzoyl peroxide friend foe

If you’re suffering from acne, chances are someone has recommended you use Benzoyl Peroxide (BP). They mentioned how good it is at treating acne, but a quick search online unearths so many potential side effects to scare you away from it for life. Is Benzoyl Peroxide really that bad?

Benzoyl Peroxide: what is it and what does it do?

Benzoyl peroxide is a peroxide (an unstable bond of two oxygen atoms that can generate free radicals). Although its mechanism of action is not completely understood, it is thought to work by generating free radicals. These free radicals kill Propionibacterium acnes, the bacteria that causes acne, by interacting with their cell walls. Benzoyl Peroxide also has a peeling action that keeps the pores clean, preventing them from getting clogged. This helps avoid breakouts. The best thing about it, though, is that bacteria don’t develop a resistance to it.

Does Benzoyl Peroxide makes skin age faster?

Free radicals are one of the main causes of premature aging. Benzoyl Peroxide can generate them. So, we should stay away from it, right? Well, it’s a bit more complicated than that. Not all free radicals are created equal. There are several types, the worst being hydroxyl radicals. These cause lasting damage, but, luckily BP doesn’t generate them. Instead, it produces phenyl radicals.

According to Paula Begoun: “Phenyl radicals are not as damaging as hydroxyl radicals, and since the reaction leading to damage occurs quickly [BP can deplete 50% of vitamin E naturally found in your skin within 30 minutes], the damage is brief and fleeting. This is no more harmful than the free radical damage that occurs to your skin from simply being surrounded by oxygen, and such a reaction is easily countered by products containing antioxidants.”

Benzoyl-peroxide

Does Benzoyl Peroxide has any other side effects?

Yes, it does. BP, especially when used in high concentrations, can cause irritations, allergies, and dryness. Luckily, studies have shown that low, 2.5% concentrations of Benzoyl Peroxide have the same benefits as higher doses, but with fewer side effects.

How to use Benzoyl Peroxide

While I don’t recommend anyone try Benzoyl Peroxide as a first treatment, for many people it is the only one that works. This is especially true for people whose acne has become resistant to other treatments. In that case, it’s best to use a small concentration of BP, and apply it only on spots rather than the whole face.

Can you use Benzoyl Peroxide with Salicylic Acid?

Salicylic Acid (SA) is another great anti-acne ingredient. Thanks to its ability to penetrate the pores, it can exfoliate them from within, removing all the gunk that causes breakouts. While BP works even better when used with SA, this combination is often too harsh for many people, causing their skin to become dry and irritated, and flake. If you want to give it a go, try using SA in the morning and BP at night, or use them on alternate days.

Best products with Benzoyl Peroxide

My favourite products with Benzoyl Peroxide are Paula’s Choice Clear Regular Strength Daily Skin Clearing Treatment with 2.5% Benzoyl Peroxide (which is also infused with soothing agents), Proactive & Proactiv+ Pore Targeting Treatment, and Epidue Gel. They all contain only 2.5% concentrations of BP.

The Bottom Line

BP is a very effective anti-acne ingredient, but, because of its side effects, it should be used only in small doses and on affected areas, and never as a first treatment.

Have you ever used Benzoyl Peroxide?