Name: Midnight Oud
Brand: Juliette Has A Gun
What I liked:
- wearable oud scent
- strong, but not overpowering
- beautiful bottle
What I didn’t like:
- if you like strong, sharp, animalic oud scents, this is not for you
- not very creative
Midnight Oud is my favourite fragrance from edgy niche brand Juliette Has A Gun. As the name suggests, it is centered around oud. One of my favourite perfume notes, oud is a resin the trees belonging to the Aquilaria species release to protect their branches and bark against fungus that would destroy them. Oud oils, the purest, high grade kind, have a very strong, pungent, overpowering smell that’s very nuanced: it has tobacco, incense, amber and woody facets.
However, pure oud oils are also very expensive so a lower quality kind, which is still dark and animalic, but less complex and more pleasant, is instead often used in perfumery. Although oud has always been very used and popular in the Middle East, it was Tom Ford that brought it to the attention of the Western World with M7, which he created for YSL in 2002. Soon, every brand started to come out with their own oud fragrance.
But because oud is so intense and sharp, not everyone is a fan of it. If that’s you, I encourage you to give Midnight Oud a sniff. Romano Ricci, the creator of Juliet Has A Gun, has created one of the softest, easiest-to-wear oud scents. Midnight Oud is opulent, rich and sophisticated, but lacks the drama, headiness and the sharpest facets of this note. The fragrance opens with a strong dry saffron note laced with subtle bergamot and leather accents. Soon, oud takes center stage but without knocking you over.
The oud here smells like leather. It’s not really that skunky, wet leather aroma though. It smells more like a brand new leather bag and is very pleasant. Here, it is mixed with a bright rose that doesn’t really smell all that floral. At this stage, the fragrance is sensual and dry. A woody-amber accord in which the patchouli is the main player appears in the drydown. It’s a lovely, although slightly predictable way to close this beautiful scent.
If like me you love a strong and sharp oud scent, Midnight Oud may disappoint you. It’s in a way quite commercial because its wearability will make it appealing to many women. But Midnigt Oud wasn’t a letdown for me. It’s not what I expected but it’s an oud scent that I can wear even during the day without giving those around me a headache, and has excellent staying power too. Midnight Oud is also a nice way to introduce oud to those who have never worn it or are afraid of it. It’s not groundbreaking, but it’s beautiful.
Juliette Has A Gun Midnight Oud is a wearable, opulent and elegant oud scent that lacks the pungent and sharp aspects of this note. Because of this, it will appeal to many women and it’s the perfect introduction to oud for those who are new to it. Staying power is very good too.