What’s The Difference Between Chemical And Physical Exfoliants?

by beautifulwithbrains on September 27, 2011

in skincare

A good exfoliant should be part of everyone’s skincare routine. Exfoliants remove the dead cells that buildup on the surface of the skin which can cause breakouts and reveal the brighter skin underneath, making you look younger and healthier. But not all exfoliants work in the same way. There are two types of exfoliants: chemical exoliants and physical exfoliants. What’s the difference between them and which type should you use?

What are chemical exfoliants?

Chemical exfoliants work by dissolving the “glue” that binds skin cells together and to the skin, thus allowing them to fall off. They can also dissolve the dead skin cells themselves. Chemical exfoliants can be used by everyone but are particularly suitable for those with sensitive skin as they don’t contain small particles or grains that could scratch and irritate skin. But which chemical exfoliant should you choose? The most common types are AHAs and BHA. AHAs, which include Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid, are suitable for dry or sun-damaged skin and, in addition to exfoliating skin, they also improve its moisture content. Those with oily, acne prone or breakout-prone skin should, instead, use BHA (Salicylic Acid). Salicylic Acid has the ability to exfoliate both the surface of the skin and inside the pores so it eliminates and prevents clogged pores that can lead to acne or pimples. In addition, BHA also has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it even more suitable for those with acne.

What are physical exfoliants?

Physical exfoliants work by mechanically removing the dead cells on the surface of the skin. One of the most common types of physical exfoliants are granular scrubs that contain small particles or grains (such as oatmeal or apricot scrubs) to exfoliate. But if these particles are too big or have uneven surfaces and textures, they can tear up the skin, causing more harm than good. Nut shells or fruit pits are the most irritating types, so try to stay away from those. A more gentle form of physical exfoliation, suitable for everyone including those with sensitive skin, is using a washcloth. They are soft and don’t irritate skin. And did you know that shaving with a razor is a type of physical exfoliation too?

Which type is best?

If you have sensitive or acne-prone skin, definitely opt for chemical exoliants as they are less likely to cause irritations and, those with Salicylic Acid, can help treat acne. Personally, I prefer chemical exfoliants as I find them to be gentler on the skin. I use physical exfoliants too at times but I find it is harder to come across one whose particles aren’t too rough or big. You can also alternate between physical and chemical exfoliants if you like both types, but just be sure not to use them both at the same time, as that will definitely irritate your skin.

Do you prefer to use chemical or physical exfoliants?

{ 24 comments… read them below or add one }

Jamilla September 27, 2011 at 2:59 pm

I stick with mostly chemical exfoliants for my dry skin!
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beautifulwithbrains September 27, 2011 at 5:45 pm

Jamilla, I prefer chemical exfoliants too. They are very effective.

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addy September 27, 2011 at 3:44 pm

Wow, I never knew that there’s a difference between both exfoliants. Funny thing though, I’m using Hada Labo AHA & BHA Gentle Exfoliating Wash but I keep on getting pimples. I’ve never been allergic to any ingredient before, even salicylic acid.
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beautifulwithbrains September 27, 2011 at 5:51 pm

Addy, is that a rinse off product? Cos AHAs and BHA need to stay on the skin to work, if you wash them off they just won’t do anything which may be why you’re still getting pimples. I know some experts recommend massaging face washes into the skin for a minute to enhance the effects of exfoliants before you rinse them off but I’m not sure how effective that would be either. Imo, if you’re going to use either AHAs or BHA (or both), you should buy leave-in products to get the most out of them (and your money).

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addy September 30, 2011 at 3:28 am

ah thanks for the heads up! yes it’s a rinse off product. guess need to get a leave-on treatment then.
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beautifulwithbrains September 30, 2011 at 6:16 am

Addy, you’re welcome. :)

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Trisha September 27, 2011 at 7:12 pm

I prefer physical exfoliants. For some reason, my sensitive skin isn’t too happy with the chemical variety.
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beautifulwithbrains September 27, 2011 at 7:37 pm

Trisha, sensitive skin needs time to get to chemical exfoliants, especially if the concentrations of the active ingredient is high. But a washcloth is a great alternative for sensitive skin too. Physical exfoliants work well too as long as they don’t have rough particles that tear up skin.

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Wendles September 28, 2011 at 2:11 am

This was a great post! I always thought for some reason that a chemical exfoliant was harsher than physcial probably because of the “chemical” connotation but it makes so much sense now. I use both. I have been using glycolic acid (MD Formulations cleanser which is great btw) but I will now consider a salicylic base for the next time as I am prone to blackheads. I do love the dermabrasion physical exfoliant from Kiehls…it is strong, so as long as it is not used with a firm hand, it has been THE MOST supereffective physical exfoliant I have used.

A personal tip, I find the main thing in exfoliating is to spend longer exfoliating but gently….instead of a quick and hard scrub and rub. I find my skin (cells) needs quite a bit of time to soften up, before they can even be sloughed off. Doing it this has way has been noticeably effective.

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beautifulwithbrains September 28, 2011 at 10:36 am

Wendles, it is such a shame that the word chemical has acquired such a bad connotation. It is more and more commonly used to describe synthetic ingredients (which are perfectly safe and effective anyway), when the word means everything that’s made up of matter. That includes water, plants, pretty much everything..

I’m glad the Kiehls exfoliator works well for you. And thanks for the tip. I agree, especially for chemical exfoliants. They need to stay on the skin to work. If you scrub skin really hard or for too little time, the results won’t be as good and may even irritate skin.

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xin September 28, 2011 at 3:14 am

having tried both, i think chemical usually works better for me. BUT i love the feeling of grainy exfoliant when i am using it ;P if you know what i mean
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beautifulwithbrains September 28, 2011 at 10:44 am

Xin, I know what I mean. ;) I can’t give up physical exfoliants for good but I prefer chemical ones too. I think they are more effective and gentler.

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Krys September 28, 2011 at 2:42 pm

I have both :) I know that chemical exfoliants are better, but sometimes there’s this physical need to really give my face a good scrub. I use Soap & Glory’s Greatest Scrub of All. It’s got salicylic acid so perfect for days when I really need to feel “clean”.
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beautifulwithbrains September 28, 2011 at 6:39 pm

Krys, I know what you mean! I usually use chemical exfoliants but there are times when I feel like I need to use a physical one too. :)

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Amanda September 28, 2011 at 3:37 pm

I use a physical exfoliant (sugar) at the moment. I think it works better for me, probably because of its granules.
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beautifulwithbrains September 28, 2011 at 6:47 pm

Amanda, sugar is a great exfoliant. I sometimes use it in a paste to scrub my lips.

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Christina @ Hair Romance September 29, 2011 at 1:14 am

Great post. I use chemical exfoliants but like you still love the feel of a physical face scrub.
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beautifulwithbrains September 29, 2011 at 6:27 am

Christina, thanks. I think chemical exfoliants work better in the long run, but sometimes it feels nice to use a physical one too.

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Vonnie (socialitedreams) September 29, 2011 at 1:47 pm

I switch off and use both…what an informative post :) very nicely done :D
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beautifulwithbrains September 29, 2011 at 2:43 pm

Vonnie, thanks. I like to use both types too, even though I use chemical ones more often. :)

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Amy December 24, 2011 at 4:29 am

I have found oatmeal is the best physical exfoliant because it has healing and calming properties and it is natural/cheap.

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beautifulwithbrains December 25, 2011 at 3:32 pm

Amy, I like oatmeal too. It works really well and is so cheap!

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Ana September 24, 2012 at 8:31 am

I use a salicylic acid mask, but I think I’ll go the washcloth/baby brush route since the SA one leaves me flaky.
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beautifulwithbrains September 24, 2012 at 11:19 am

Ana, I’m sorry the SA mask doesn’t work for you. A washcloth is my fave type of physical exfoliant as it is really gentle and can be used every day.

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