What’s The Truth About Lead In Lipsticks?

by beautifulwithbrains on October 19, 2010

in ingredients

Concerns about lead in lipstick aroused a few years ago when an email claiming that lipsticks were full of lead and could cause cancer started circulating. Although the email turned out to be a hoax, some people never felt fully reassured and every now and then, the issue keeps cropping up again. So what’s the truth?

Before we go on, a brief preamble. The information stated in this article applies to cosmetics sold in the USA, although the European Union and the UK also have organizations monitoring the safety of cosmetics with very similar and strict guidelines. It’s only to fake and counterfeit cosmetics these rules don’t apply to so beware of them. Now, that’s out of the way, let’s get down to business.

What is lead?

Lead is a heavy metal, greyish blue in color, that occurs naturally in the earth. Because of this, lead is present in the environment, in the air, in the water, in the soil and therefore in food too. In a nutshell, lead is present almost anywhere and we are exposed to it on a daily basis. This is very scary considering that lead can be very harmful to human health and cause deadly diseases. The good news though is that in water, food and cosmetics lead is present in only trace amounts which don’t pose any harm to human beings.

Why is lead in my cosmetics?

But why is lead in cosmetics in the first place? Well, cosmetics companies do not put lead in their products. But to obtain certain colors, they need to use particular dyes and it is in those dyes that trace amounts of lead can be found. Now, cosmetic companies can’t use any dye they like but only those that are approved by the FDA (or the equivalent organizations in other parts of the world), which are deemed safe for use on the lips.

The limit imposed by the FDA on lead in straight undiluted colors is of 20ppm (20 parts per millions), although most colors contain even less. In addition, each bath of color must be controlled and approved by the FDA before it can be sold and used in cosmetics. So, you see, companies can’t just put what they want in their products and there are strict tests ingredients have to pass before they can be included in makeup and personal care products.

Lipsticks vs Candy

When concerns with lead in cosmetics appeared, the FDA investigated the matter and reached the following conclusion: “FDA found lead in all of the lipsticks tested, ranging from 0.09 ppm to 3.06 ppm with an average value of 1.07 ppm. FDA concludes that the lead levels found are within the range that would be expected from lipsticks formulated with permitted color additives and other ingredients that had been prepared under good manufacturing practice conditions.” In other words, there is nothing to worry about as the levels of lead are too small to cause any harm.

Despite this, those that are determined to prove that lipsticks with lead are dangerous like to compare the levels of this heavy metal in lipsticks and candy. However, this comparison is unfair and silly. Here’s why. While it is true that the levels of lead allowed in candy is of 0.1ppm, much lower than that allowed in lipstick (20ppm), the two products have different purposes.

Candy is meant to be eaten, lipstick isn’t. Of course we might inadvertently swallow a bit of our lippie or lick it off our lips every now and again, but the amount of lipstick we are going to ingest will always be far lower than that of the candy we’re gonna eat. This means, that by eating a couple pieces of candy (or even drinking a glass of tap water) you’ll ingest more lead than if you wore lipstick and that’s why the law is stricter when it comes to food.

The precautionary principle

I know some of you will say, but Gio, if lead is present everywhere and I can’t avoid it completely, then I’d rather at least stop using lipsticks that contain lead. After all, I don’t need further exposure to dangerous chemicals I’m already exposed to daily. While I do respect this point of view, you won’t be seeing me switching to lead-free lipsticks anytime soon.

While I’m all for safe cosmetics, I think running to your stash to throw away your lipsticks is just a bit paranoid. The traces of lead in lippies are so minimal that they’re harmless. If you’re really concerned with lead exposure, you’d better test your water supply or vegetable garden to know how much lead is present in the tap water you drink and the veggies you grow and eat. You’d ingest a lot more lead that way yet no one is worried about that. People are all only worried about the extremely low amount present in lipstick as if that would seal their fate and kill them. Rest assured, it won’t.

The Bottom Lime

While lead in high quantities is harmful to human health, the concentration present in lipstick (which is regulated and controlled by law to ensure our safety!) is minimal. And the amount of lipstick you would accidentally ingest is even less, which makes it harmless. If you’re concerned about exposure to chemicals than you’d better reconsider what you eat or drink rather than throwing out the lipsticks in your stash, especially if you don’t use them often.

What’s your take on lipsticks with lead?

{ 12 comments… read them below or add one }

Phyrra October 19, 2010 at 4:53 pm

I found the campaign for safe cosmetics to be a fear mongering campaign which made me dislike it. You’re entirely correct, in my opinion, that the miniscule amount of lead found in lipsticks – which are not meant to be ingested – should not be a huge worry. There are more important things to worry about.
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beautifulwithbrains October 19, 2010 at 6:14 pm

Phyrra, I can’t stand the campaign for safe cosmetics either. I’m all for safe cosmetics and in theory their aim is right, but in practice they just like to scare people telling them most ingredients are toxic and carcinogenic without providing any proof at all. Which is not surprising, since science has proved every scary claim they make to be wrong and unfounded.

As for lippies, I agree there are more important things to worry about and using a lipstick with such a minuscule amount of lead won’t harm you at all.

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Trisha October 19, 2010 at 6:52 pm

Thanks, Gio! I had no idea. But I’m glad that lipsticks at least have safe amounts of lead as determined by the FDA.
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beautifulwithbrains October 19, 2010 at 8:46 pm

Trisha, you’re welcome. Contrary to popular opinion, cosmetics are very strictly regulated (and rightly so) and they can only contain extremely small concntrations of dangerous ingredients so that they won’t pose any risk to human health.

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Dao October 19, 2010 at 8:18 pm

Most red lipsticks contain higher level of lead because some red pigments are lead-based . I read that report, too, and after that, I don’t even think expensive lipsticks are safer anymore. With that said, the amount of lead in lipsticks is minute. But what makes it controversial is lead accumulates in human bodies. The kidney is the target organ because of its structure. In adults, lead exposure in small quantity does not make such a huge difference but in children, lead exposure does lead to a lot of unwanted developmental problems. I’ve read literatures about children living in lead contaminated residence and low IQ. And guess what? Little girls like to apply and sometimes eat their mommies’ lipsticks and if that lipstick is on the upper end of the list, I think we need to be worried.

The research articles in lead are fun to read because they are so controversial. Until we know its exact mechanism, I guess we should err on the safe side.
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beautifulwithbrains October 19, 2010 at 8:54 pm

Dao, I’m all for safe cosmetics and err on the safe side but I honestly don’t think that lipsticks with lead are dangerous even for kids. Yes, lead in high quantities causes lots of health problems especially in kids but like you pointed out those that were seriosuly affected by it live in lead contaminated areas and are therefore exposed to very high levels of this heavy metal. I don’t think that can be compared to lispticks.

Yes, some little girls like to play with their mum’s lipsticks so if one wants to err on the safe side and ban their daughters from using them that’s fine. But not every kid uses lipstick, a product that’s not meant to be ingested, while every child eats candy and drinks tap water, which are meant to be eaten and drunk, and contain higher levels of lead than lipstick. If a parent is concerned about their children being exposed to lead, they’d rather avoid buying them candy and check the water supply in the house. But getting all paranoid about lipsticks and not worrying at all about what one eats or drinks is just well, silly in my opinion.

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Tammy October 19, 2010 at 11:57 pm

I’m with you and Phyrra on the campaign for safe cosmetics. They really are just a bunch of fear mongers, and I think spreading fear is equivalent to spreading hate, but I’m not about to get into that right now.

I’m not too concerned about lead in lipsticks or other cosmetics. If you think about it, almost ll cosmetics contain trace amounts of possibly dangerous chemicals. It’s good to be safe, but why worry when the amounts are so tiny? There are more pressing issues to worry about.
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beautifulwithbrains October 20, 2010 at 8:41 am

Tammy, I agree with you about the campaign for safe cosmetics. I had thought of briefly mentioning that on this post but it was turning into a very long rant so I left it out. Maybe a should write a post about it..

I agree, most cosmetics contain ingredients that although have side effects at high concentrations are harmless in the tiny amounts used in these products. Besides, even vegs, fruits and water contain small amounts of these ingredients and, unlike cosmetics, food is meant to be ingested. Yet, you don’t hear anyone saying that apples and water are dangerous (because they’re not and neither are cosmetics). Seriosuly people should get informed and get their priorities straight instead than worry about things that are harmless.

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makeup morsels October 20, 2010 at 4:33 am

really good post! I agree that the comparison they’re using is twisting the facts slightly, you argued it very well! p.s. I really like the picture for this post :)
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beautifulwithbrains October 20, 2010 at 8:43 am

Makeup Morsels, thanks. They are forced to use silly comparisons like that since there are absolutely no proof that lead in cosmetics is dangerous and that’s why they use fear to spread their lies. Otherwise, people would realise how silly their claims are.

I thought that photo would be perfect for the post. ;)

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Jeni October 20, 2010 at 8:01 am

I’m not too concerned about lead in lipstick because I agree that there are bigger things to worry about – like what’s in our food, as you mentioned. I also don’t wear lipstick! I wonder if there’s any lead in lipgloss?
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beautifulwithbrains October 20, 2010 at 8:46 am

Jeni, I’m not sure about that. No one has ever complained about lipgloss so I didn’t research it. But if they use the same dyes as lipsticks then lead could be in them too. In any case, the amounts would be extremely small too as every ingredient, dyes included, used in cosmetics are strictly regulated to make sure they’re safe so I wouldn’t worry about that either.

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